Feb 04

As you probably know, your hard drive is the most important component in your computer because it houses all your data. Unfortunately it is the most likely device to fail. While virtually all modern hard drives have S.M.A.R.T. technology built in to detect failures, one important factor you can monitor is your hard drive temperature with HDD Temperature.

HDD Temperature is a free program which, simply put, monitors and warns you when temperatures get to high on your hard drive. You can customize the temperature warning level as well as how the system responds to a tripped warning.

The free version is limited to a single hard drive, so if you have multiple hard drives in your system, or you want to monitor a server, then the pro version might be a better fit.

 

Jan 31
The new USB 3.0 standard (specification) will be released in the first half of 2008, Intel has revealed at its Developer Forum.

The present day USB 2.0 delivers a transfer speed of upto 480 Mbps, whereas USB 3.0 promises 10 times of this speed taking the transfer rate to 4.8 Gbps.
Moreover, It will be backwards-compatible with USB 2.0, which is backwards-compatible with the first USB 1.1 definition.

Intel stated that the USB 3.0 specification would be optimized for low power and improved protocol efficiency. The USB 3.0 ports and cabling will be designed with both copper and optical cable capabilities, meaning even higher speeds will be possible in the future. “USB 3.0 is the next logical step for the PC’s most popular wired connectivity,” said Jeff Ravencraft, technology strategist with Intel and president of the USB Implementers Forum (USB-IF). “The digital era requires high-speed performance and reliable connectivity to move the enormous amounts of digital content now present in everyday life. USB 3.0 will meet this challenge while maintaining the ease-of-use experience that users have come to love and expect from any USB technology.”

He further said : “If the USB 3.0 Promoter’s group meets its objective of spec completion in the first half of 2008, then we should see the first silicon solutions on the market in 2009, followed by end products in late 2009 or early 2010.”

Dec 06

Firewire and USB 2.0 connectors are the two most popular ways to connect a peripheral device to a desktop or laptop. Whether it is a printer, scanner, MP3 player or video camera, chances are it connects to your computer via one of those two technologies. While both of the technologies are fast and similar in other ways, there are differences between the two. This article will help you identify the similarities and differences between Firewire and USB 2.0.

While Firewire and USB 2.0 are different technologies, they do share several traits. On a basic level, they are similar because each technology is used to connect peripheral devices to a computer. Additionally, each technology can transfer data at a rate of four hundred megabytes per second or higher. Both technologies are also hot-swappable. This means that you can connect and disconnect multiple devices without the need to reboot your computer. Finally, Firewire and USB 2.0 are both compatible with PCs and Macs, although Firewire was originally developed by Apple.

To identify the differences between the two technologies, it’s important to to understand the specific characteristics of each one. The current Firewire standard is capable of transferring four hundred megabytes per second, while an upcoming update will be capable of thirty-one hundred megabytes per second. It’s major strong point is the high amount of bandwidth it features. Firewire is commonly used for video cameras and MP3 players, but can also be found in many other peripheral devices. Additionally, two Firewire devices can be connected to each other (without the presence of a computer) and transfer data.

USB 2.0 is probably the more commonly known of the two technologies. It was originally introduced in 1997 to connect devices such as keyboards, monitors and mice, but overtime it has spread to other devices like CD/DVD burners, digital cameras and MP3 players. Although USB 1.1 was only capable of transferring twelve megabytes per second, USB 2.0 can handle up to four hundred and eighty per second. USB has become very popular because it is extremely simple to use with most modern computers. Normally, you can just plug a device in, and it is ready to go with no need for installing drivers or software.

So what are the major differences between the two technologies? To begin with, USB 2.0 is backward compatible. This means that any USB 1.1 device can be used, it will just transfer data at the twelve megabytes per second rate. Next, only Firewire supports the connection of two devices without the need for a computer. USB can only accomplish this task with a computer as the go-between. Finally, Firewire can handle much more bandwidth than USB 2.0. This is why devices like video cameras use Firewire. The reason for this difference is that USB was originally developed for low bandwidth devices like mice and keyboards.

Dec 06

Installing a second drive or replacing an existing one is a fairly simple procedure, and a good experience for those looking to learn more about how their PC works. With the price of storage at rock bottom, there is no reason not to add a second drive to your set up, which will give you additional space for applications and extend the useful life of your PC.

When looking to buy a hard drive, it is important to check a few things first to ensure that it will indeed work with your system. The most important is the interface (Older machines used IDE whereas newer machines lean towards SATA or even SATA2), though you should also take disk space and spindle speed into consideration.

Once you have your hard drive, you should do your best to leave it in the packaging until it is required. This will help prevent exposure to static, which can damage electrical circuitry. It is wise to wear an anti static wrist strap whenever doing any work within your PC.

First, ensure your PC is switched off at the mains but leave it plugged in. This will earth the case and help prevent static. Next, remove the case screws and slide off either the side panels or entire case housing depending on the design. The hard drive should be fairly easy to spot, and normally sits in a metal cage towards the front of the PC. If you are upgrading your drive, you will need to remove both cables from the back of the drive, undo the four screws holding it in and gently slide the device out.

However, if you are installing a second drive, you must check the jumper setting before installing the drive. The jumper settings are dictated by the location of a small plastic sleeve relative to the set of pins located next to the power connection. The drive can be configured in several ways, though the most common are master or slave your primary or secondary drive. To find out which pins you must connect with the small black sleeve, refer to the sticker on the drive itself or the manufacturers handbook.

Once you have set the jumper on your new drive, slide it carefully into one of the bays, preferably with space between drives to allow air to flow, though this isn’t always possible if you have a small case, and secure it with four screws. Next, connect the IDE or SATA cable and power cable to the drive. If you have replaced your drive, you need to use the same connector as was in your previous drive. If this is a second drive, you need to plug the other connector on the same cable into your new drive. Most IDE cables come with two connectors, with the one at the far end the master and the one in the middle the slave. If you have second SATA drive, you need to connect a new cable from one of the remaining SATA channels on your motherboard to the new drive.

Replace the casing and turn on your PC and watch carefully as it boots up. Not only should you hear your new drive spinning up, but you should see it listed under the drives as your machine boots up. If this is a second drive, you should boot straight into Windows and be able to see your new drive under My Computer. You will need to right click on the drive itself and format it to the desired file system. If it is a replacement drive, there will be no operating system present, so you will have to install one using the set up CD.

If the drive does not appear, it is worth double checking the connections and that you have indeed set the jumpers appropriately.

Dec 06
Installing a new graphics card can give any machine a boost, particularly if you have been relying on onboard graphics. There is a lot of jargon associated with graphics cards, so you should do a little research before purchasing. The most important thing to note is the interface, which is the slot which your card itself sits in. Older machines may have PCI or AGP slots, whereas newer machines more commonly use PCI-E or AGP slots. To see which your machine uses, consult your motherboard manual or look up its specification on the manufacturers website.

Once you have your graphics card, the first thing to do is uninstall your current graphics drivers. Although this may not be an essential step, it will help keep things tidy and avoid any conflicts, so it is worth doing. To uninstall the drivers, click Start Settings Control Panel System Hardware tab Device Manager. Expand the Display Adapter tree and you should see a graphics card listed. Right click on the card name and select properties. Finally, go to the Driver tab and select Uninstall.

Next, shut down your machine and switch it off at the wall. Remove the case and locate your current graphics card, if you have one. The graphics card is typically found in the uppermost brown slot (AGP or even PCI-E) located above a series of white slots (PCI slots). Older machines may have a PCI graphics card, hence will be located in one of the PCI slots, though these are becoming more uncommon. To remove your current card, remove the screw holding the silver backing plate in place. An anti static wristband is useful here, though simply touching a metal part of the case will be sufficient to avoid static build up. You should now be able to carefully slide the card out of its slot, taking care not to touch any of the other components.

Next, take your new card out of it s anti static bag and place it in the same slot. You may need to apply a little force to get it to sit in properly, though if the motherboard begins to bow excessively, ensure you have the connector lined up with the slot correctly. You may also need to pull a plastic catch up to hold the card in place. Next, replace the screw to the backing plate and check that the card is seated firmly. Some newer cards require their own power source, and if this is the case you will need to insert a power cable into the appropriate slot. This will be outlined in your new cards manual, and it is always advisable to quickly flick through and look for any additional steps.

Replace the sides of your case and boot your machine up. Windows should detect your new card, though it may be a good idea not to install a driver when prompted. Instead, click cancel and your machine should finish booting to the desktop albeit at a default resolution. Insert the CD that came with your card and set the drivers up from here, as there may be additional features and utilities that came with your card. Once this has completed, you will be prompted to restart your machine. After you have done this, you should be able to change the resolution and colour depth of your desktop by right clicking on desktop, selecting properties, going to the Settings tab and using the slider to select the most appropriate resolution.

It may also be worth going to the graphics card manufacturers website and searching for any driver updates. Newer drivers will get the best performance out of your card, fix bugs in prior releases and may even add new features.